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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.